Cheesecake is one of those desserts that never stops surprising. Its versatility allows it to take on a variety of flavors—sweet, creamy, tangy, and even savory—making every new piece worth trying.

Santiago Rivera is widely credited with creating the “burnt” cheesecake in the 1980s, though he doesn’t love the spinoffs it has spawned. Decades later, he’s preparing to hand over his kitchen to his ...